Invitation to press conference on Tue 13th February: Schjerfbeck and fashion in focus at Villa Gyllenberg next spring
The spring exhibition at Villa Gyllenberg brings together stylish fashion from the past and the art of Helene Schjerfbeck and other artists from her time. Schjerfbeck & Fashion – Art and Costume History 1880–1950 is one of the first exhibitions in Finland to present historical fashion and paintings side by side. The exhibition will run from 14 February to 9 June 2024.
The press conference will take place at Villa Gyllenberg on Tuesday 13th February at 11 a.m.
Please let us know if you are attending by e-mailing Siiri Oinonen, Head of Customer and Program Services, siiri.oinonen@gyllenbergs.fi
![Helene Schjerfbeck: Elegant Lady (Dora), ca. 1928, oil on canvas, 37,5 x 38,5 cm, Villa Gyllenberg / Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation. Photo: Matias Uusikylä / Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/0a1f7133-9f4c-41d9-b604-ae6c3202a1f0-w_720.jpg)
Schjerfbeck and fashion
Helene Schjerfbeck (1862–1946) loved both painting and fashion, and in her portraits the model’s attire was an integral part of the work. The birth of modern fashion coincided with Helene Schjerfbeck’s career, which spanned from the 1870s to the 1940s.
Schjerfbeck was particularly fond of French-style apparel, and French fashion magazines served as inspiration for her paintings as well. The coolly elegant figures of the women in the fashion photos, with their long necks and reddened lips, merged into the image of modern femininity embodied in works of art. Schjerfbeck’s enthusiasm for fashion is also evident in her letters to her cousin Dora Estlander, who was the model for the painting Elegant Lady (Dora), (ca. 1928). The letters from 1922–1945 are now owned by the Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation, and the research conducted for the exhibition is partially based on this source material.
“We want to highlight the side of Helene Schjerfbeck, and many other Finnish artists too, that loved both art and fashion. Often thought of as superficial and transient, fashion is commonly seen as the opposite of art, which is perceived as edifying and timeless. However, modern art and modern fashion are intertwined in many ways. Schjerfbeck's art and her correspondence illustrate this perfectly,” says Lotta Nylund, Chief Curator at Villa Gyllenberg.
Historical glamour
Especially in portrait art, clothing has played a key role. Alongside Schjerfbeck’s works, the exhibition presents works by more than twenty other Finnish artists related to fashion and costume history. For example, Albert Edelfelt (1854–1905) and Gunnar Berndtson (1854–1895) were inspired by the world of fashion, and costumes and textiles are central to creating atmosphere and impression in their works.
In addition to fine art, the exhibition presents about thirty costumes of the period, from leisurewear to brilliant evening dresses. The exhibition also highlights the history of costume making and atelier fashion.
“We want the exhibition visitors to see the costumes of the past and learn about the cultural history of fashion. Costumes communicate the identity and social status of their wearers, and the history of costumes helps to interpret works of art and the people appearing in them,” Nylund explains.
The exhibition will also feature an interpretation of the outfit that can be seen in Schjerfbeck’s painting Dark Lady (1929). Irma Romero, a dressmaker and designer specialising in vintage fashion, has used authentic materials and techniques to recreate the outfit, which exudes Japonism and the style of Coco Chanel.
“The outfit brings Schjerfbeck's painting from a hundred years ago to life in a unique way and presents to visitors an interpretation of the fashion that inspired the artist,” Nylund says.
Urban life and leisure
Many artists of the era were inspired by the world of fashion and used it as a way of reflecting modern life. Urbanisation and the vitalist movement, which promoted health and vitality, transformed lifestyles. Changes in fashion enabled women to lead freer and more active lifestyles than before, as the disappearance of corsets and bustles revolutionised sports and recreation. In the 1920s, attitudes towards make-up became more permissive, and hair fashion was renewed by the bob cut. The catalogues, display windows, fashion magazines and advertisements of fashion boutiques and department stores gave birth to a new kind of visual culture that was also reflected in art.
“Modern people appeared superficial and distant to Schjerfbeck, but also artistically intriguing. The masked nature of the faces depicted in her portraits is reminiscent of fashion pictures, while at the same time bringing to mind works by the masters of modern art, such as Pablo Picasso and Piet Mondrian," says art historian Marja Lahelma, one of the curators of the exhibition.
The focus of the exhibition is women’s fashion, as the changes in men’s fashion between the 1880s and 1950s were relatively small, and the imagery related to men’s fashion is quite limited. Nevertheless, the selected male portraits embody modern, urban masculinity in an interesting way. Several works, such as the portrait of author Olavi Paavolainen (1928) by Väinö Kunnas (1896–1929), have a dashing dandy-like nature. Jalmari Ruokokoski (1886–1936) and Tyko Sallinen (1879–1955), both considered bohemian artists, chose to portray themselves as well-groomed gentlemen. Through their portraits and self-portraits, the artists captured the aesthetics, manners and customs of the modern world.
The exhibition features 35 dresses, 20 works by Schjerfbeck and more than 40 works by other Finnish artists. Artists featured in the exhibition include: Hugo Backmansson, Gunnar Berndtson, Väinö Blomstedt, Yngve Bäck, Birger Carlstedt, Marcus Collin, Albert Edelfelt, Ragnar Ekelund, Akseli Gallen-Kallela, Olga Gummerus-Ehrström, Axel Haartman, Greta Hällfors-Sipilä, Eero Järnefelt, Erkki Koponen, Väinö Kunnas, Vilho Lampi, Yrjö Ollila, Jalmari Ruokokoski, Tyko Sallinen, Santeri Salokivi, Helene Schjerfbeck, Hugo Simberg, Venny Soldan-Brofeldt, Ilmari Vuori, Dora Wahlroos, Matti Warén, Torsten Wasastjerna and Maria Wiik.
The curators of the exhibition are art historian Marja Lahelma, fashion historian Katri Pyysalo and Villa Gyllenberg’s chief curator Lotta Nylund.
In connection with the exhibition, a richly illustrated book related to the theme of the exhibition will be published in Finnish and Swedish (Parvs Publishing Ltd). In addition to contributions by the exhibition’s curators and Irma Romero, the book includes articles by Ritva Koskennurmi-Sivonen, lecturer in craft studies and fashion theory, and Schjerfbeck expert Sue Cedercreutz-Suhonen. The exhibition is part of the 75th anniversary of the Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation.
Contacts
Lotta Nylund, Chief Curator, Villa Gyllenberg, lotta.nylund@gyllenbergs.fi, +358 40 576 1753
Siiri Oinonen, Head of Customer and Program Services, siiri.oinonen@gyllenbergs.fi, +358 40 825 4763 (photos)
Exhibition Curator Marja Lahelma, marja.lahelma@helsinki.fi
Exhibition Curator Katri Pyysalo, katri.pyysalo@tampere.fi
Extended opening hours during the exhibition
Wed, Thu 12–17
Sat, Sun 11–17
Tour bookings
Address
Kuusisaarenpolku 11
00340 Helsinki
Keywords
Contacts
Lotta NylundVilla Gyllenberg
Tel:+358 40 576 1753lotta.nylund@gyllenbergs.fiSiiri OinonenVilla Gyllenberg
Tel:+358 40 825 4763siiri.oinonen@gyllenbergs.fiImages
![Helene Schjerfbeck: Elegant Lady (Dora), ca. 1928, oil on canvas, 37,5 x 38,5 cm, Villa Gyllenberg / Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation. Photo: Matias Uusikylä / Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/0a1f7133-9f4c-41d9-b604-ae6c3202a1f0-w_240.jpg)
![Helene Schjerfbeck: Portrait of a Girl, 1928, pencil, charcoal and gouache on paper, 36 x 29 cm, The Reitz Collection. Photo: Matias Uusikylä / The Reitz Collection.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/9f9e892e-4778-4054-b3a9-cf98053c0566-w_240.jpg)
![Gunnar Berndtson: The Mirror, 1889, oil on wood, 27,5 x 20,5 cm, Hoving Collection, Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum. Photo: Hannu Aaltonen / Finnish National Gallery.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/a568c620-b7e4-444d-82fa-4e5603a44a48-w_240.jpg)
![Helene Schjerfbeck: Girl from Eydtkuhnen II, 1927, oil on canvas, 70 x 54,5 cm, Yrjö and Nanny Kaunisto Collection, Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum. Photo: Jenni Nurminen / Finnish National Gallery.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/5ecf08ea-7f72-4889-b6ea-fd3a8f894667-w_240.jpg)
![Olga Gummerus-Ehrström: Sketch of Haus Molchow’s stained glass windows (the middle part), ca. 1906, oil on paper, 112 x 60 cm, Gösta Serlachius Fine Arts Foundation, Mänttä. Photo: Sampo Linkoneva / Gösta Serlachius Fine Arts Foundation.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/f24e69e5-1422-4c5c-8430-2b10090d8924-w_240.jpg)
![Väinö Kunnas: Olavi Paavolainen, 1928, oil on canvas, 125 x 85,5 cm, WSOY Literary Foundation. Photo: Katri Lehtola / WSOY Literary Foundation.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/371b8b10-154c-4a50-9df4-de3520e4fd79-w_240.jpg)
![Walking Costume, Tampere historic museums, 1890s. Photo: Reetta Lepistö.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/9311a975-ef9e-4541-ba14-ce7b7e70ab55-w_240.jpg)
![Evening dress, 1911–1914, silk and glass beads, Tampere historic museums. Photo: Reetta Lepistö.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/cb0ae01c-652a-4d5f-9f14-ba4e40a6b981-w_240.jpg)
![Greta Hällfors-Sipilä: Bangs (Elli Sipilä), 1920, oil on canvas, 45,5 x 31,5 cm, Finnish National Gallery / Ateneum Art Museum. Photo: Hannu Pakarinen / Finnish National Gallery.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/c9f8fe14-9a6d-48e0-a97e-5256aa07630a-w_240.jpg)
![Akseli Gallen-Kallela: After the Masked Ball, 1888, oil on panel, 27 x 21,5 cm, Private Collection. Photo: Matias Uusikylä.](/data/images/public/69819587/70083755/fd0d6e0f-b23a-4b4f-9179-1e340799ca0e-w_240.jpg)
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Villa Gyllenberg
Villa Gyllenberg is a home and art museum situated on the island of Kuusisaari in Helsinki. The museum is kept by Signe and Ane Gyllenberg Foundation. Please check out the museum's web site for updated information about opening hours, admission, exhibitions and events.
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Latest releases from Villa Gyllenberg
Nya verk av Jarmo Mäkilä på Villa Gyllenberg hösten 202427.8.2024 08:52:00 EEST | Tiedote
Villa Gyllenbergs höstutställning lyfter fram den ansedde samtidskonstnären Jarmo Mäkiläs senaste produktion. Mäkiläs realistiska målningar är själslandskap som befinner sig i ett mellanrum, på gränsen mellan det inre och det yttre. En del av de verk som visas har skapats för denna utställning och presenteras i dialog med verk från Gyllenbergs samling. Jagets utveckling samt minnenas och det undermedvetnas betydelse är centrala teman i dessa kontroversiella och känsloladdade verk. Utställningen Jarmo Mäkilä – Jag är många visas under tiden 23.10.2024–2.3.2025, kurator är författaren och konstnären Timo Valjakka. Päivi Kettunen är utställningsarkitekt.
Jarmo Mäkilän uutta tuotantoa esille Villa Gyllenbergiin syksyllä 202427.8.2024 08:52:00 EEST | Tiedote
Taidemuseo Villa Gyllenbergin syysnäyttely nostaa esiin arvostetun nykytaiteilijan Jarmo Mäkilän uutta tuotantoa. Mäkilän realistiset maalaukset ovat mielenmaisemia, jotka sijoittuvat välitiloihin, sisäisen ja ulkoisen rajamaille. Osa esille tulevista teoksista on valmistunut tätä näyttelyä varten ja esitetään vuoropuhelussa Gyllenbergin kokoelmateosten kanssa. Ristiriitaisia ja voimakkaita tunteita herättävien teosten keskeisinä teemoina on minuuden kehitys sekä muistojen ja alitajunnan merkitys. Näyttely Jarmo Mäkilä – Minä olen monta on esillä 23.10.2024.–2.3.2025. Näyttelyn kuraattori on taidekriitikko ja taiteilija Timo Valjakka. Näyttelyarkkitehti on Päivi Kettunen.
Villa Gyllenberg to exhibit new works by Jarmo Mäkilä in autumn 202427.8.2024 08:52:00 EEST | Press release
The Villa Gyllenberg Art Museum’s autumn exhibition presents new works by distinguished contemporary artist Jarmo Mäkilä. Mäkilä’s realistic paintings are mental landscapes occupying liminal spaces, on the borders between the inner and the outer. Some of the works have been prepared especially for this exhibition and are being presented in dialogue with art in the Gyllenberg Collection. The central themes of the works, which evoke conflicting and strong emotions, are the development of the self and the importance of memories and the subconscious. The exhibition Jarmo Mäkilä – I am a Multitude will run from 23 October 2024 to 2 March 2025. The curator of the exhibition is art critic and artist Timo Valjakka. The exhibition architect is Päivi Kettunen.
Rekordpublik på Villa Gyllenbergs utställning Schjerfbeck & mode – nya Schjerfbeckförvärv på sommarutställningen som öppnar den 26 juni10.6.2024 09:35:00 EEST | Tiedote
Villa Gyllenbergs utställning Schjerfbeck & mode – konst och dräkthistoria 1880–1950 som stängdes den 9 juni 2024 besöktes av över 41 000 personer. Det imponerande besökarantalet slog klart museets tidigare års- och utställningsrekord. Museet kommer härnäst att öppna utställningen I tiden. Samling Ane Gyllenberg, där också de tre nya verk som förvärvades av Signe och Ane Gyllenbergs stiftelse i maj 2024 kommer att visas.
Ennätysyleisö Villa Gyllenbergin Schjerfbeck & muoti -näyttelyssä – uusia Schjerfbeck -hankintoja esille 26.6. aukeavaan kesänäyttelyyn10.6.2024 09:35:00 EEST | Tiedote
Villa Gyllenbergin taidemuseon 9.6.2024 päättyneen Schjerfbeck & muoti – taidetta ja pukuhistoriaa 1880–1950 -näyttelyn näki yli 41 000 kävijää. Hurja yleisömäärä löi kirkkaasti museon aiemmat vuosittaiset ja näyttelykohtaiset ennätykset. Museossa avautuu seuraavaksi Ajan hengessä. Kokoelma Ane Gyllenberg -näyttely, johon tulee esille myös Signe ja Ane Gyllenbergin säätiön toukokuussa 2024 hankkimat kolme uutta teosta.
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